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Travel notebook: Warsaw, beauty is inside

Warsaw will look like everything you've seen before and nothing. These are the directions where to live a city that could not afford to be beautiful: it was busy opening up to the world

Warsaw, beauty is inside © F. Kwiatkowski / Warsaw Tourist Office

Warsaw it should not suffer the tyranny of beauty at first sight by which cities are measured. To the Polish capital the right to inner beauty must be granted and leave, without hurrying, to seduce us with all the interesting things it has to offer.

WHERE TO SLEEP

Hotel Poland Palace

Open in 1913, the Poland Palace is witness, and also protagonist, of the convulsive history of Warsaw. If their walls spoke they would tell anecdotes of cultural evenings, aristocratic dances and diplomatic secrets.

Today, its spacious rooms with huge and fluffy beds They grant us the dawn show at the foot of the Palace of Culture and Science. (Jerozolimskie Avenue, 45. From € 80).

Facade of the hotel Poland Palace © Polonia Palace

Raffles Europejski

We have a new boy in the city. From June 1, the classic luxury of the Raffles brand opens coordinates in the Polish capital. And what coordinates! It occupies the neo-Renaissance palace that Enrico Marconi designed in 1857 next to the mythical Royal Route.

Its interior is a tribute to the essence of Poland through art, with a collection composed of more than five hundred works, and a strong representation of homeland crafts, responsible for many of the new finishes.

The rooms, with details such as cozy library areas, give views over the old town, the presidential palace or the lush vegetation of the Saxon Garden. It has a spa and indoor pool. (Krakowskie Przedmiescie, 13. From € 267)

The H15 Boutique Hotel

Five stars, history and good taste. With these ingredients you can 'cook' the H15, a boutique hotel that, located between Lazienki Park and the old town, knows how to turn around what could be interpreted as being in no man's land to become In the ideal starting point to reach all corners of the city.

Inside it houses rooms and spacious apartments in which design and interiors move us to psychedelia and the color of the 50s. (Poznanska, 15. From € 95).

Room 1968, one of four by Autor Rooms © Basia Kuligowska and Przemek Nieciecki

Author Rooms

Understand that the importance is in the details and how you make the guest feel is what the prodigy boys of Warsaw design did, Mamastudio They are responsible for this small four room boutique hotel with which they wanted to offer an alternative to hostels and large chains.

Art Nouveau on the outside; minimalism, wood and white tones inside. And everything, but everything, with what you cross is the work of Polish artists. Immersing yourself in another world was this. (Lwowska 17/7. From € 99).

WHERE TO EAT

Kieliszki na Hożej

Blunt and with the meat as the protagonist, Polish cuisine does not miss his appointment with the diner in this restaurant where the local coexists with spices, sauces and distant ingredients that expand its range of flavors and dress it with creativity.

Do not leave without trying their corns with tomato, parmesan, ginger, basil and oregano; neither the dumplings with cheese oscypek and onion Check out his wine list. Warsaw establishments replace the lack of national labels with Interesting imports from all over the world. (Hoża, 41).

Fried egg in the pan, with beans, asparagus and bacon © Butchery and wine (Facebook)

Butchery and wine

The grill of this restaurant works tirelessly. Based on charcoal and wood, it reaches 500ºC for Caramelize the meat and give it a flavor that has become its hallmark.

You will like their homemade pork jelly with cucumber salad and their veal gizzards on toasts, but what will really captivate you will be its fried egg in the pan, with beans, asparagus and bacon. To finish and rest the feast, a lemon ice cream with bergamot, pineapple and strawberry (Żurawia, 22).

Warszawski Sznyt (Steak & Art Kitchen)

Traditional restaurant on the ground floor, modern Polish cuisine on the top floor, where they bet on the usual, but enhancing flavors and textures with unknown techniques When the dishes were created.

Its large windows overlook the Plaza del Castillo with the orange color of this mythical building in the background. Your eyes may go to familiar names of hamburgers, salads, cheese boards or sausages, but This landscape should be accompanied with a good plate of Zurek, the typical Warsaw soup, prepared based on fermented wheat flour, sausages, egg, garlic and spices. You will see it everywhere (Senatorska, 2).

Warszawski Sen

Located in the market of Koszyki, The Warsaw Dream (translation of the name) intends to captivate the diner by sight and finish seducing him by the stomach. A complete experience that begins with a design of geometric shapes and ends by supporting the spoon after Give good account of your meringue with pomegranate and pineapple.

Previously, we will have traveled through the steak tartar to see why it is their specialty - take note of a detail: the onion and the pickles are to blame - (Koszykowa, 63).

Dawne Smaki

The name of this classic restaurant, made of wood and unpolluted waiters, speaks of The ancient flavors of Polish cuisine. Its location borders Real Street, but hides behind a passage with a collected and more than pleasant garden in which to eat or dine outdoors When summer nights start to appear When they arrive, they do it accompanied by live music with which to put a soundtrack to the evenings (Nowy Świat, 49).

BREAKFAST AND BREAKFAST

Wedel

This famous brand has been seducing us with the art of making (good) chocolate since 1851. It has stores all over the world and several establishments in Warsaw.

However, the one on Szpitalna street (number 8) is a must. Why? Why It has been open since 1893 and its decoration has remained intact since then; because it is one of the few places where you will see how the bakers work giving the last touch up to one of the handmade tablets; and because yes, here you will also find the mythical Ptasie Mleczko, those chocolate-covered bauble clouds, flagship of the house and much appreciated by the Poles.

The art of the best chocolate since 1851 © Wedel

A. Blikle

The oldest cafeteria in Warsaw, active since 1869, is famous for its pączki, a sweet whose dough reminds us of the donut, but without a hole, and whose fillings cover a wide range of flavors. The most typical? The rose petals.

If you ask around, be sure that they will explain to you that this delight is the predecessor of the donut since, according to the legend, it was the Polish emigrants who took her to the United States, where the concept evolved (Nowy Świat, 33).

Wrzenie Świata

This cafeteria-bookshopIt is reached after fleeing from the Calle Real through a bland alley that, to the surprise of the traveler, flows into a shady courtyard where Wrzenie Świata and its terrace await us.

Here you buy books and consume coffee, juices and breakfasts; but also cocktails, wine, tapas and sandwiches. However, don't be fooled, what you don't know when you enter here is that What is really reconquering is its ability to enjoy every moment and dedicate the time it deserves (Konstantego Ildefonsa Gałczyńskiego, 7).

Miodowa Café

Cakes, pies, truffles, meringues or your star proposal, some tartlets based on cottage cheese and flavors like pistachio, oreo, honey and banana Tempting greetings from the counter. You will not know whether to take photos to increase your legion of followers on Instagram or throw yourself to quench all your sudden cravings (Senatorska, 13/15).

You will not know whether to upload your photos to Instagram or eat everything © Midowa Café

WHERE TO DRINK

Kufle and Kapsle

If what you want is to take a good craft beer, this is the place to go on pilgrimage. His name, which translated means 'beer mugs and badges'He says it all.

Here you will find them from all over the world and also from small local producers. More than 150 references. There is nothing (Nowogrodzka, 25).

Kita Koguta

The cocktail bar It is your hallmark. That and the graffiti that cover virtually all of its walls. Do not go to imagine that here one comes to sit peacefully and philosophize about transcendental issues. Kita Koguta must come with a lot of desire to party And with a lot of nerve! If not, forget to keep up (Krucza, 6/14).

Syreni Śpiew

One hundred whiskey references and more than 40 classic cocktails in charge of the know-how of their bartenders they could be the business card of Syreni Śpiew. Let's dress it up with the live music that sounds on weekends and with being located inside the Rydz Śmigły park (Szara, 10th).

SHOPPING

Risk

Risk Made in Warsaw was born in 2011 with a clear objective: get clothes to make our lives easier. Their store, the only one they have in the city, is reached through an alley that leads to a charming patio with tall houses and exposed brick walls.

Design, fashion and accessories: essential multispace © TFH Koncept

From a corner, announced by a garland of white lights, Risk seduces us. Prosecco or lemonade to start. To follow, two open spaces in which white dominates and the tones of the designs that hang next to the wall. (Szpitalna, 6A).

TFH Koncept

Its 150 m² make this concept store place of passage forced for Lovers of fashion and urban art. On its hangers and shelves one finds clothes, cosmetics, candles, magazines that are worth collecting and books that are worth reading.

Your criteria to select each product? "Bring what we like", They tell us, and they bring it from anywhere, especially from home, Poland, but also from Lithuania, Belarus or United Kingdom (Szpitalna, 8).

Nap

Recover the artisan, the taste for the trade and the originality in the design It is the philosophy that Nap follows when carefully choosing the decoration and fashion brands with which he works in each of his stores.

On the one on Mysia Street (number 300 - 496) we find leather bags, clothing, accessories, ceramics, furniture and a whole list of those expert objects in generating needs that you didn't know you had.

LeBrand

Founded in 2014, this brand of ready-to-wear born by work and grace of Polish designer Paulinę Pyszkiewicz, who wanted to offer women minimalist garments and excellent finishes, but in which Comfort becomes the essential requirement. For its elaboration it uses natural materials and its production is developed entirely in Warsaw (Mokotowska, 39).

Palace of Culture and Science © iStock

DO NOT MISS

Palace of Culture and Science

Imposing and pretty in its roughness. Thus we could describe the building that best represents the Soviet domain in Warsaw.

Hated by the elders who remember this dark period of their history and treated with indifference by the youngest, today the Palace of Culture and Science is home to theaters, cinemas, museums, restaurants and even university classrooms. A miscellaneous crowned by which, without a doubt, is its great attraction: the terrace of its 30th floor, about 230 meters high, and from which to enjoy 360º views over the city (Plaza Defilad, 1. Price: 20 Slotis - about € 4.5 -).

Lazienki Park

Warsaw would not need this park to be considered a green city. But he has it and is well worth a visit to, among other things, get lost in your ways and in any silly turn face down with his famous Palace on the water. He was commanded by King Stanislaus Augustus to build there by the 17th century in an island of the lake that waters the whole enclosure. Its walls endured the looting of a war and now they look, apparently delicate, their neoclassical style.

Water Palace in Lazienki Park © Getty Images

Take note because, between May and September 30, Lazienki has a soundtrack, that of Frédéric Chopin's pieces. Every Sunday at 12.00 and 16.00, next to the iron sculpture erected in his honor at the entrance, different musicians sit at the piano to interpret the works of the most famous of the Polish composers (Ujazdowskie Avenue. Free admission).

Warsaw Uprising Museum

Much has been said about the rise of the ghetto and much less that of the city. The one that occurred between August 1 and October 5, 1944when Warsaw revolted not only against the Nazi regime, but also against the growing threat of falling under the dominion of the Soviet Union.

Through photographs, sounds, images and even replicas of bombers, the museum takes a tour of the causes, the facts, the consequences and the context in which it occurred a revolt that ended with 80% of the city's buildings destroyed. Only suitable for history lovers (Grzybowska 79. From 25 Slotis -5.5 € -).

Prague neighborhood

It is one of the few places where the word reconstruction does not dominate everything. And is that being located on the other side of the Vistula River and not having participated in the 1944 uprising made It was largely rid of the bombings of World War II.

Soho Factory, in the district of Prague © Alamy

He has been living for a few years a transformation process with which it pretends to stop being that poor neighborhood in which the City Council gave (literally) the floors, to become the visible face of the artistic pulse of Warsaw.

The clearest example is the project Soho Factory, an area of ​​old abandoned industrial buildings that have come back to life thanks to businesses that range from restaurants to architecture or design studios, to a Neon Museum that is nothing more than an attempt to preserve the luminous signs that illuminated the Cold War. It is recommended to arrive by taxi to the area.

SURVIVAL DICTIONARY

- Hi: Cześć (tchests)

- Goodbye: Do widzenia (do vitword)

- How much?: Ile kosztuje (ile koszhtuye)

- How do you go to… ?: Jak dojść do ...? (yak doísch do)

- What do you recomend?: Co my poleca (tso my pullet)

- A beer please: Piwo proszę (Pivo Proshe)

- The check, please?: Rachunek poproszę (rajunec poproshem)

- What is the wifi password?: Jakie Jest Hasło Do Wifi (yakye yest jasuo do wifi)

- Please (or here it is): Proszę (proshe)

- Thank you: Dziękuję bardzo (dyenkuye bartso)

*This report was published in the number 120 of the Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (September). Subscribe to the print edition (11 printed numbers and digital version for € 24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The September Condé Nast Traveler number is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device.

Warsaw Old Town © Getty Images

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