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Seafood safari in Galicia: Rías Altas

Agrestes, savages, less populated than the Baixas and richer in almost virgin spaces, the Rías Altas extend along the coasts of Lugo and Coruña, from the border with Asturias to Fisterra.

Full of great beaches that rarely get crowded, fishing villages, cliffs, legends and, of course, good food, we review the recesses of the Rías Altas to give you directions in which to enjoy some of the best seafood What will you eat in your life?


The seafood concept should not be the basis of your route. Of course, many places offer large trays with spider crabs, barnacles and crayfish sorted more or less artistically on cabbage leaves, but once proven (and thereby killed the mystical shudder that causes the word "seafood") it is better to be restrained , order the seafood that you most want and is in time and combine portions of a couple or three varieties without saturating the palate or our uric acid.

If there is a lot of octopus, there are few kernels, and vice versa. The cephalopod king is not seafood and this advice may not help much when facing a gastronomic rally, but we like this prodigious balance of the ocean so much that we cannot ignore it. Say it a lot, all the time.

There are many ways to eat octopus in Galicia © Thinkstock

In general, it never hurts call the restaurant first to reserve If you have a craving for something concrete. When the product is really fresh, its availability can never be guaranteed one hundred percent.

The cheap does not exist. You can get fed up with oysters at a better taste and price than on the terrace of a luxury hotel and there are even bars that put a tapas bar with a glass of wine or restaurants that include barnacles on the menu of the day. Galicia is one of those places where it is still possible to eat very well for little money, but Seafood always has a price, so you don't have to get disgusting (not disgusting) and to cowboy polo that counts.

Beach of the Cathedrals, Ribadeo © Corbis


For a rice with Lobster in the village of Rinlo, near Ribadeo and one step away from the mega-frequented Beach of the Cathedrals. A brotherhood of Rinlo specializes in rice with lobster (book in advance) which may be the opíparo premiere of a few days of gastronomic tributes (Avenida Leopoldo Calvo Sotelo y Bustelo 2, Rinlo).

The fish market bar (A Lonxa) of Burela - one of the most important boating ports in Europe - is a place of battle and perpetual movement. The decoration is non-existent, but who cares about that detail when the product just arrived at the port is auctioned on the ground floor. In addition to the omnipresent pretty, tapas and portions of steamed clams, prawns, cockles or longueiróns are served (similar to the knife) wasting professionalism and know-how. (Rúa do Berbés s / n, Burela).

Good seafood and good views © Restaurante Nito

One of the hot spots of Galician and Spanish cuisine is the Nito restaurant in Viveiro, One of those places that you can not miss because of its very fresh product and its simple and delicious cuisine. They also have some views from the terrace and the glazed dining room which reaffirm that Galicia, if the weather was always good, would be California. (Area 1 Beach, Viveiro).

Continuing west, between the tip of Stake of Bars and the Ría de Ortigueira, the restaurant Planet has behind forty years of serving excellent quality seafood and fish (specialized in shrimp, lubrigante, barnacles or scallops) overlooking the beach of Espasante to recreate the view while enjoying the good life. (San Roque 13, Port of Espasante).

Continuing along the estuaries the impeccable visit to the cliffs of San Andres de Teixido (with their legends, their bread figurines and their illustrious dead) can be accompanied by a stopover in the tavern of the Bouza brothers, at the foot of the hermitage, in which barnacles are served as regularly as carefree. If our weakness is those strange creatures born from the bites of the waves against the rocks, Cedeira is mandatory. At Badulaque or the Praza do Peixe We will understand the value of this manna by which the barnacle bears life. (Badulaque: Area Longa s / n, Cederia; Praza do Peixe: Rúa do Mariñeiro 1, Cedeira)

San Andrés de Teixido, an essential visit © Corbis

To continue combining all the possibilities of the word “barnacle,” another visit is imposed on, of course, You pierce, one of those places that are most desired precisely because they are open only in summer. In addition to those fingers of challenging nails, they serve clams and a good selection of traditionally prepared fish. (Taraza s / n, Meirás, Valdoviño). If we are not in full heat, in nearby Pantín, Casa Caneiro serves seafood products throughout the year (Frádigas 1, Pantín, Valdoviño) one step away from some of the most idyllic beaches What can we find.

In the Ferrolterra our option is the Modesto Restaurant (Aneiros-Serantes), which also has a large cellar to accompany your selection of seafood preserved in its own nursery. More than a restaurant, a food house, in The inn of the Sea, in Mugardos (Avenida do Mar 4, Mugardos), is famous for the octopus to the mugardesa. If we are saturated with octopus to feira You have to try this preparation, with onion and red pepper, and accompany it with the nécoras, clams or barnacles that also serve in your establishment facing the ocean.

Barnacles, blessed treasure of the sea © Thinkstock

Already in the Betanzos estuary, in the port of Ares, the Bitákora restaurant is a good product guarantee. It is best to go open to suggestions that serve in the day according to what has been found in the square - understand the market or the market for square - (Marina, Ares).

Entering the orbit of Coruña, El Refugio, in Oleiros, is a classic restaurant "well placed", with a sophisticated point. In addition to hunting in autumn-winter, oysters, crab or crayfish are not lacking in their seafood menu. It is always a success (Galicia Square 8, Oleiros).

In the heart of the city, Marisquería Celeiro has all the delicious products that we have been mining throughout the article and one more: eels. In season and at a price that is better not to look, but you angulate after all! (Strip 41, Coruña).

In the old Playa Club, Tira do Playa is the urban bet of the owners of Tira do Cordel (later we will talk about him). There they serve their already legendary sea bass and seafood with some of the best views of a city that is full of spectacular views. (Andén de Riazor s / n, Coruña). A little more informal but without neglecting the quality, Mesón Lois is a busy restaurant that serves cockles, clams, mussels or crayfish prepared at its right point (Star 40, Coruña).

From the sea to the table © Marisquería Celeiro

Now facing Costa da Morte, in Malpica we have Casa Rosa, specialized in lobster casserole. (Emilio González López 57, Malpica de Bergantiños). To eat on the rocks overlooking the Atlantic, the As Garzas Refuge is the answer. It implies moving a little from the town, but it is from those places of uncontaminated coast that you had almost forgotten that they existed. They serve fantastic sea bass and within the object of this dissertation, the barnacles stand out. (Porto Barizo 40, Barizo, Malpica)

In the route along the Costa da Morte, with its stories of shipwrecks, Prestige and marine life on all four sides, one of the restaurants that are well worth a stop is A Casa do Arco (Ramon Square Play 6, Laxe), in Laxe, where the selected seafood is only eclipsed by house rice or lobster rice. In Camariñas, famous for its lace and song, the seafood restaurant O Meu lar serves caldeirada of fish and grilled scallops of those that are stored in our hypothalamus forever (Finch 26, Camariñas).

The best end to a gastronomic route along the high estuaries is a well-deserved classic on the beach: Tira do Cordel serves razors, clams, barnacles and a sea bass that removes the hiccups. It is already one of the items to visit in Fisterra on its own merits, perfect to say goodbye to the coast of the end of the world in style. (Playa Langosteira, Place of San Roque, s / n, Fisterra).

A meal to never forget © As Garzas Refuge

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