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Editor'S Choice - 2020

Gastronomic Paris: Yam'Tcha

We continue our hedonistic tour (restaurants, bistros and cocktail bars) through la ville de l'amour et la lumiere from the hand of the small (and revolutionary) restaurant of Adeline Grattard.

I will never forget Yam'Tcha because the reservation process (desperate and excited) was immediately after the Paris attacks of that unfortunate thirteenth of November, in the Saint-Denis neighborhood. I needed to go back to Paris and shout loudly that I still believe, like Joann Sfar, that eat, drink and live is our greatest triumph. Sfar (cartoonist and screenwriter of the caliber of Vamp or Rabbi's cat) reacted to the catastrophe, from his Instagram account, in the only possible way: drawing. Reminding us, pen in hand, the reasons why we can only win this war. So essential, so bright:

- Paris is our capital. We love music, drunkenness, joy; For centuries, some people in love with death have tried to take away the joy of living. They have not succeeded. Those who love, those who love life, in the end are always the winners.

-Friends from all over the world, thanks for #prayforParis, but we don't need more religion. Our faith is with music! The kisses! Life! Champagne and joy! #parisisaboutlife

I decided to go back to Paris; A weekend celebrating life in the city of love. Eat, drink and kick every street in a city that doesn't know -that he does not want to miss an iota of his Creed: we are alive. Order another bottle in any tasca (Chez Georges, without going any further) and sweep the kitchens of the great restaurants we still have to know.

Yam'Tcha it's the little bistro of Adeline Grattard at Rue Saint Honoré, unbeatable location for a lord lunch between Colette, Goyard or Comme des Garçons. The Grattard spent three years in the kitchen of L'Astrance by Pascar Bardot then anchor in Wan chai (Honk Kong) -and exactly so is your kitchen: a perfect cocktail of French and Cantonese cuisine. Fusion? What else will the labels give ...

Scallop with citrus fruits © Jesús Terrés

Start the nine course menu with the cheesecake with caviar and Vietnamese roll; without further ado, without unnecessary (they are so boring already ...) snacks, which rarely offer something truly authentic. With the tartar of still and the scallop with citrus fruits Adelaine shows the master lines of what will be the rest of the menu - and its cuisine: dishes where the sharpness of flavor prevails; simple elaborations, without major complications, where the product quality shines.

We chose, to accompany the dishes, a Morey-St-Denis by Domaine Hubert et Laurent Lignier; although the restaurant offers the possibility of harmonizing the dishes with tea (Yam'Tcha, in Chinese, means "tea time") Burgundy better than tea, what am I going to tell you. I chose it because yes and because Adelaine's cuisine is infinitely more Burgundy than Bordeaux (Bordeaux: large castles, opulence and roundness); Burgundy is subtlety and goldsmithing, such as sea bass with shiitake mushrooms and shrimp soup, which give way to the menu buzz: filet mignon, Brussels sprouts, cecina de León and truffle. Delicacy, history, product, flavor and harmony. A dish for memory in a restaurant (this one) so humble as to pretend something so high: Adelaine just wants to cook.

He courtyard it illuminates the tables and even the kitchen seen, small (beautiful) space where Grattard and a group of cooks work in silence. A discreet cook; a reflective and coherent kitchen that does not intend to epate, who doesn't look for the show for the show (a female kitchen?); that just seeks to give you a moment of peace and happiness, Wasn't that the love for gastronomy?

I went back to Paris to remember the reasons we fought. I returned to prostrate myself at what I believe: to eat, drink, kiss and write in this essential little restaurant where the cooks are artisans and the light of the sky of Paris is filtered, unreal (beautiful) on the wooden and oak tables. This was. This is.

Follow @nadaimporta

The magic of an inner courtyard © Jesús Terrés

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