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Editor'S Choice - 2020

Where do those who always eat for work eat for pleasure?

It is something perhaps more common among bookshelves or people in the cinema: making lists with the tastes of those who (are supposed to) know most about a subject. Is it our vein cotilla's fault? It's possible; but it is also true that it is a wonderful opportunity to discover new bars, taverns and restaurants. We want to know!

Eating with the Chefs (Editorial Phaidon) © D.R.

The idea was already superbly edited by Phaidon in an essential book: Where Chefs Eat. A guide with gastronomic recommendations of up to six hundred and thirty chefs (said soon); from René Redzepi to Massimo Bottura, from the Roca brothers to Pascal Barbot and of course Adriá. What is a gastronomic book without Adriá, eh? That?

In Mantel & Cuchillo we do not intend to invent the wheel, but we do go a little further. The question is simple: why limit ourselves to chefs? Do chefs summarize the entire spectrum of gastronomy? So we have asked many more professionals; we have talked with gastronomic journalists, with room managers, maitres, sommeliers and even interior designers (specialized in gastronomic projects). Where do they eat when there is no rush or commission or work involved? Where do so many professionals in the gastronomic sector eat when all that matters is pleasure?

A previous note: no requirement in this round of questions. Here there are no more rules than freedom and the parranda, so it is time for this party to begin: Where do those who always eat for work eat for pleasure?

Masip House © D.R.


Xavier Pellicer, of our dear Celeri (Barcelona) choose Bangkok Café, The Mundane and Memories of China. Francis Paniego de Echaurren (in Ezcaray) chooses Masip de Ezcaray, Trattoria de Logroño and Egues de Logroño: “A family restaurant in Ezcaray, a very good Italian and a chop steak”.

Let's go with Rodrigo de la Calle: “Fair house is my favorite bar… because it makes the best torreznos in the world and you know that the day I book as what I don't eat every day. Juanjo de la Tasquita (we are super friends) and for me it is one of the covers of the gastronomic panorama, but one day he will recognize everything he does for quality cuisine. Sacha is another icon of the best gastronomy: it does not matter to you, but the truth is that it deserves much more recognition than it has. Ah, Topero is the best vegetable restaurant in Spain ... I recommend it. ”

Memories of China © D.R.


Didier Fertilati, maître de Quique Dacosta, does not go nonsense: Casa Manolo, Elkano and El Faralló. Fran Ramirez from Alabaster (which by the way has just received the award for the best wine list at the International Wine Challenge Merchant Awards) which, to begin with, is confessed to "more taverner than anything else." Your choice? Casa Revuelta in Latoneros, El Doble in Ponzano, Tricycle in Santa María street, La Tasqueria de Javi Estévez and Arzábal in Doctor Castelo.

We finish with the best wine shop of the year and (also) a convert, Juan Manuel Bellver. Key journalist in the recent history of the gastronomic press, author of the essential guide 1001 wines to try before you die and today director of Lavinia (Madrid, of course) it is easy to see him stroll in the restaurant in search of some unforgettable burgundy: “When I eat for pleasure and not for work, I usually go to restaurants that my wife and my ten-year-old son likes . Curiously, the three of us shared the passion for Japanese cuisine, dim sum, cebiches, pasta, curries ... things that are now in fashion, but that are part of our 'fun diet', since Manuel was very small. Once this is explained, I will give you some conventional but very nice names for me: Sudestada, Tandoori Station, Mercato Bal clar, Tiradito, Don Lay *, Kabuki, Izariya ... " (* currently closed).

Tandoori station © Tandoori Station. Text: Marta Sahelices


Marta Fernández Guadaño, from Gastroeconomy (and so many things…): “These are places I go to frequently or I've been going 'for good' lately, not thinking about work ... with friends or family ... and to which I would return once and a thousand times. In Madrid: Tricycle, La Ardosa, La Ancha, Sacha, Casa Salvador, Celso and Manolo, Atlantic Bar, Ham and Champagne Sandwich. In Galicia: Badulaque (in Cedeira), Abastos 2.0 (in Santiago), A Ramalleira (in Pantín). And in Barcelona: the entrance bar of Dos Palillos, Bodega 1900, Suculent, Lomo Bajo ”.

Jose Carlos Capel, gastronomic critic of El País and president of MadridFusión: “When I can I will eat croquettes at Viavelez, potato tortilla to La Ardosa or La Penela, Russian salad (recipe by Vicente Patiño) to La Bomba Bistrot, pizzas to La Cúpula (trattoria hidden in Las Matas) and cooked to the New Oven of Santa Teresa ”.

Antonio Vergara, "El Grande", we are chiva three restaurants boleo, all in Valencia: Barbados, Milan, Mas Blayet and Casa Carmina (in El Saler).

The tasca of a lifetime, as never before. © Celso and Manolo

David Moralejo, editor in chief of Tapas: “Lera: my Faviken in what I save to go to Faviken. My Proustian getaway in Spanish version, that is, in Delibes version. Memories of childhood, radical cuisine, hunting, stew and a cook, Luis Alberto Lera, who is a great friend and has a future in this that gives me even vertigo to think about it.

La Tasquita de Enfrente: Juanjo is from another planet because he insists that it be so. I consider him a little my gastronomic father (and not to be angry about his father), because with him I learn and enjoy the crazy. Always.

Cruz Blanca Vallecas, its famous stew, makes many of its masterly tripe (always with champagne, of course), croquettes or monkfish with monkfish. Antonio Cosmen has been feeding me since I had no teeth and I hope he will continue until I fall. I feel at home with him.

The Good Life: Carlos and Elisa represent good taste, delicacy, quiet and discreet work. We are a few who think that he is one of the greats of Madrid for all this, for the vinazos that always uncork and because it is always a pleasure to go see them. In this sense, and so I cherish another, the same thing happens a little with Iván Sáez and Desencaja. I would go every day ... but unfortunately the time to enjoy is limited when you dedicate yourself to write for others to enjoy. Paradoxes of life, I know. ”

La Tasquita de Enfrente, 35 years between kitchens and Madrid artisteo © La Tasquita de Enfrente

Fernando Huidobro, president of the Andalusian Academy of Gastronomy and Tourism, gourmet without prejudice and good type (despite being a lawyer): “El Faro de El Puerto in Puerto de Santa Maria; Because it's at hand. It has parking. You can talk It has discreet service. It is comfortable. And he eats very well! Tribeca; Because it is nice, beautiful and functional. It is wide and there is enough distance between tables. Very attentive service that lets you talk. Elegant atmosphere to be with customers. And he eats very well! Refectorium Campanario in Malaga; Because he is retired. It is nice and has stunning views of Malaga. It has a prodigious terrace where it gives the sun and is a wonder. Belén owner and boss room makes the food very pleasant and entertaining. Silent and spacious And he eats very well! El Carmen de Isabela in Granada. Nice, comfortable and with parking. Stately home. Snack bar and wait great. Eat pecking or more gastronomic. Bright. And he eats very well! ”

And it eats phenomenal! © The Port Lighthouse


Francesc Rifé (Barcelona) responsible for wonderful spaces such as Ricard Camarena, Habitual or elBulliLab: “La barra del Coure, exceptional minibar. Restaurant Bonanova, the affirmation of traditional Catalan cuisine but with the extravagant eyes of the Herrero brothers. Two pebrots, the revolution of the great Albert continues. Roig Robí, extraordinary urban garden. Koy Shunka, where my fascination with Japan extends. Backlit, an island in the ocean and Tram Tram, I have it next to home. ”

The bar where you must rub shoulders according to Frances Rifé © Coure

Sandra Tarruella (La Bien Aparecida, Celeri or El Celler de Can Roca): “Green Spot: healthy and tasty in a luxury of space, an oasis in the middle of the city. Like, Italian where you feel at home. Familiar trade. Japanese Skylight; there is always atmosphere, original letter and good quality. La Bien Aparecida (Madrid) where you eat very, very well. The place is nice, fun, bright and warm. And the interior design is ours ”.

Here the interior designers eat © Green Spot

Video: How the food you eat affects your brain - Mia Nacamulli (March 2020).

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