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Being in Babia (and in winter): a snow and chimney getaway

We have new rural accommodation in the area

Snow and chimney: Babia was this © Clumsy (Flickr with CC license)

It exists in Babia a rural house between snow and clouds that seems expressly designed for chimney and blanket escapes ... but that ends up becoming the opposite.

Because yes, the heat of firewood comforts, but it is not comparable to the satisfaction of finishing one of the routes of this historical region in which the paths run through endless valleys and the dosmiles rush into the horizon with its attractive limestone rock profile. It is called the Babia Dairy, and opens a new stay baptized as Water.

So far, three were the accommodations that its owner, Ángel Quiñones, had rehabilitated in La Lechería de Babia, a charming corner at the entrance of the town of San Emiliano: The shelter, an independent wooden and stone house of two heights; The star, with its rustic stone-clad living room; Y El Portalón and its delicate floral textiles.

Water arrives to complete the over demand of chimneys in the area.

“I have many fixed clients from Seville who come to spend the Christmas in Babia in search of cold and snow ”, Angel tells me. I intuit that the Homemade cake, the artisan bread from the bakery of Riolago and the fresh flowers With those who entertain their clients without obligation, they also have much to do with this bis.

If there are travelers able to withstand the -5ºC of Copenhagen just by taking a cappuccino on the terrace of The Coffee Collective or to withstand the extreme humidity of Kauppatori port from Helsinki for trying a salting herring, how could the Sevillians not go straight up the Ruta de la Plata, until Lion, to enjoy this isolated region that reveals its most endearing appearance during the winter months?

If what you want is cold, this is your place in the world © D.R.

A PLACE WITH HISTORY

Buying the old dairy I don't know if it will be the most risky thing Angel has ever done in his life (he is one of those who crown dosmiles like someone who drinks coffee in the morning), but yes The most visionary.

A native of Babia, he saw the potential of the former butter factory in the region Until the Civil War.

“Here people brought the milk from their homes to transform it into butter and then sell it in the city. Then it was a dairy, hence there are water channels through all the buildings, ”he explains.

Today, ten years after its opening, it has become involved in both the interior design of Agua and in its day it did with the rest of the spaces.

On this occasion, wood is still the main thread of the environments, but a large carpet of hydraulic tiles presides over the living room, as dictated by current decorative trends. The fireplace, on the other hand, is more rustic.

Staying in a little piece of history © D.R.

HIKER, THERE IS NO PATH

Inside everything is designed for taste, enjoyment and relaxation of the lucky ones they get book one of the four houses (for the bridge or try, it's all complete), but what do you find when you move away from the fireplace and the blanket?

“The good thing about the area is that we have marked roads for all levels: two of the simplest routes pass between the towns of Candemuela and La Majúa and from Riolago to Villasecino, a perfect valley bottom route for ride a mountain bike because of its low slope, ”says Angel.

The most physically prepared can face the 13 and a half kilometers of the route of the surroundings of Ubiña, which ascends from Torrebarrio to the hill of Ronzón, and then descends through the pastures of the Vega de Riotuerto to the track that connects the Casa de Mieres with the town of Pinos.

That said it seems all very technical, but I summarize it in language 2.0: you will share photos of Spanish-speaking horses and Leon brañas on your social networks, how well they could go through little houses in a hobbit village; you will boast a panoramic selfie at almost 2,000 meters high with peaks such as the Three Marias in the background and nurture your blog with stories from other times, such as the one that places to Jovellanos in 1792 in the town of Torrebarrio realizing a castle with 304 towers (it seems that he would have written 3 or 4, but, as journalists well know, never let the truth ruin a good story).

This tour will be much more comfortable if you rent for 10 euros a day before snow rackets in the new MTB center Babia stop (Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.), also San Emiliano.

Senderista, there is no path © D.R.

Adrenaline lovers often dare (not if there is a blizzard) to climb the 2,417 meters high from Peña Ubiña, one of the highest mountains in the Cantabrian mountain range.

An ascent that in winter it is not necessary to take a joke, since does not admit mistakes or distractions, not even among professionals who use it to train skills with which to face higher peaks in other parts of the world.

I, who in summer have seen Jesus Calleja running down the stony channel downhill, have also seen him in Extreme Challenge caught and disoriented on his crest due to the harsh night weather conditions.

You will not have to worry about the bad weather if you approach by car until River Lake to visit his monumental Palace of the Quinones, today converted into a interpretation centern called Babia y Luna Park House.

From here another route to the tchao lake in which "it is necessary to carry adequate cartography," warns the city council.

Perhaps it is a successful deterrent trick to preserve from the tourist impact its (already in itself) threatened habitat, composed of peat bogs and unique carnivorous plants.

Do you dare with a walk? © Alamy

WITH YOUR FEET ON THE TABLE

Once you return from the heights to take oxygen, you will have two options: curl up again in front of your babiana fireplace and prepare something in the perfectly equipped kitchens of La Lechería or book a table at restaurants from the area to taste local recipes.

This year you are late at gastronomic days of colt in which they served, among other dishes, creamy foal hash and seasonal mushrooms in the restaurant White Peaks of La Cueta (the highest town in the province of León), pate with raspberry reduction in La Casona de Babia and loin of foal with potato skewer with honey aioli from Babia in the San Emiliano Valley.

But, since we are in confidence, I tell you a secret, I know in good ink that if you notify with time in the Inn (colloquial name with which this last restaurant is known), Maria Isabel will be in charge of displaying her culinary magic to Clone this recipe just for you at almost any time of the year. As much as this, with the snow and the chimneys burning, be the most appetizing and delicious of all.

Video: Babia Góra winter. Full off-trail ascent and descent (March 2020).

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